Lukla, Weather Delays, and a Blessing from a Living Goddess
As women from different parts of the world arrived to hike together, we bonded almost instantly—as women tend to do. For everyone in the group, this was their first trip to Nepal, and the excitement was contagious.
For three straight days, flights to Lukla were cancelled due to weather. Luckily, those days were scheduled for sightseeing in Kathmandu and getting to know one another—and our guide, Dawa Yangjin Sherpa, who we quickly nicknamed Mama G. As we explored the city, we quietly debated backup plans: a grueling two‑day drive on mountain roads, or rerouting the entire hike.
Then something unexpected happened.
The Kumari is Nepal’s Living Goddess—a young girl believed to embody divine feminine power. She lives in a centuries‑old palace at Kathmandu Durbar Square and makes rare, silent appearances at a window. Even a brief glimpse is considered a powerful blessing.
During our visit, we happened to be inside the palace when the Kumari appeared. I’ve visited this palace three times over the years, and this was the first time I’d ever seen her. It was a strange, powerful moment—one that left me thoughtful and a little conflicted. But that’s what travel does best: it challenges your perspective.
I don’t usually believe in signs. But the next morning, the skies cleared.
We were one of the only planes to land in Lukla that day.
And yes—the landing was as dramatic as everyone says.
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